Having a deep-pocketed new owner clearly suits Donatella Versace, who staged a great, full-blown glamour show at Piazza Lina Bo Bardi, in a giant underground space underneath Milan’s Diamond Tower, located across the street from Versace’s new world headquarters in the booming Porta Nuova neighborhood. A thousand life-sized heads of Donatella greeted guests, projected onto a truly massive 80-meter-long and five-meter-high LED wall. Pre-show, the wall also projected the audience, distorting the editors, buyers and influencers like a show ground mirror. Donatella has included men in women’s shows before, but never so equally. For next fall, Donatella has shortened skirts lengths, nipped in waists and produced a hyper linear collection. She opened with a blond couple in black technical gabardine suits, the girl wearing platforms with her skirt, the guy’s pants tucked into chunky heeled wellingtons. Skirt lengths were so high they were almost indecent, while red houndstooth blazers were cut like double-breasted mini dresses. Breaking the pattern, she displayed some great some great mini A-line puffers and then wowed with a new computer-graphic zebra print used in cocktails, coats and men’s suits, all the while projecting the pattern onto the massive wall.
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