Tom Ford pushes the reset button thinking of Weimer through the lenses of the Babylon Berlin series in Italy broadcast on Sky Atlantic

 

Lace and lace combined with faux leather and fake coconut are the leitmotif of a collection characterized by sobriety and good taste with which the designer / director at Armory on Park Avenue has opened the week in New York in stark contrast to the Hollywood extravagances he proposed last season.

«Fashion has been lost on the street. It’s easy for all of us to be swept up in trends that have nothing to do with what men and women really want to wear, “wrote Tom Ford in a post-fashion show mail in which he makes a rare examination of conscience.

«I became a stylist because I wanted men and women to feel beautiful, to give them self-confidence. To make them feel able to present their best side to the world with clothes that flatter the figure. Which make looking taller leaner. In a word, more beautiful ».

Casual goodbye. Not even a sneaker in sight: only metallic high heels.

To applaud his next spring-summer, Ford had assembled a series A parterre: from Tom Hanks with his wife Rita Wilson to Cardi B. and Henry Golding, the heartbreaker star of the latest blockbuster movie «Crazy Rich Asian» sitting next to him to the director of Vogue Anna Wintour who celebrates this year the thirtieth anniversary at the helm of the most influential fashion magazine in the world among recurring voices at least as much as the denials that in the coming months is ready to leave.

But it was not only the Berlin of the Twenties that was brought to the catwalk by the director of “A Single Man” and “Nocturnal Animals”, but also an echo of the beginning of his career from Gucci in the mid-nineties when Carine Roitfeld was his muse and women climbed the rooms of the buttons in skirts-sheath dresses and stilettos.

So here are the fake coconut skirt suits with a tight skirt combined with the corset, masculine jackets declined in feminine silk satin, deconstructed tuxedos, lace petticoats peeping from the hem of the knee-length rouche skirt.

Sobriety also in the colors: black, white, ultra-pale pink with the exception of the fake leopard, especially for the evening, worn over meters and meters of silk fringes.