«I wanted to go beyond the streetwear concept», said Lucas Ossendrijver, who plays on contrasts and on patchwork-clothes


Dark, the models that run fast through the bare room like a maddened swarm of bees. The Lanvin fashion show closes with a surprise, with a shiver of movement that recalls those changes that accompany the clothes. “It’s not formal, it’s not casual, it’s just chic,” explained Lucas Ossendrijver, the creative mind of Lanvin’s man. “They’re clothes that we change, they’re hybrids.”

They tell more stories together. Quotes army, sportswear, inserts from different pieces in one garment. «I wanted to go beyond streetwear», the designer continued, focusing on contrasts and a functional mix. Starting from oversized shapes built on cigarette pants or shorts, worn with amphibians or super-technical sneakers.

And with big bags “that recall those of the removals”. A contrast that continues between daytime and evening, between large shoulders of jackets, capes that cover an egg. Between tops built with the back of a shirt and the front of a shirt. And that sportswear that insinuates itself as a genetic variation and leads to a deluxe easy-to-wear outlined by the soft silhouettes.

Judgment. If the fashion house is still looking for an author for the woman, Lanvin’s menswear seems to be in excellent hands with Ossendrijver. That builds a balanced collection between being and appearing.