In stark contrast to the modernist, all-silver Space-Age gloss from fall, the collection from the Margiela subsidiary focused on the nostalgia of childhood
At its core, MM6’s Resort 2019 collection is about scaling up vintage childrenswear into adult-size pieces, turning the sailor separates and school jumpers into playfully proportioned things for arty, grown-up women. But what’s really going on here is MM6 reclaiming the ideas that made the work of Martin Margiela so revolutionary in their day.
The most obvious is the remaking of vintage clothing. The children’s clothing here is re-created faithfully at a larger scale for a playfully oversize effect, but also the source garments are each printed on a tee or sweatshirt with a little description of the item: A boy’s blazer is a teensy central graphic on an extra-long long-sleeved top. There’s also a wild range of floral prints, taken from a vintage scarf and redone in gray, blue, or orange, that reestablishes the Margiela Maison as the originator of the scarf print garment; a section of plaid suiting in strange proportions that lays claim to Martin Margiela’s groundbreaking work in that arena; worn-in mules that come pre-scuffed; and a leather tote bag with the MMM label printed as a graphic, so as to remind everyone the original genius of Margiela’s many lines.
All to say that the MM6 team is smart to reassert its brand as the genesis of so many of today’s predominant trends, and do it in such a well-edited collection. Considering that Maison Margiela proper continues to veer into new experimental territory on the runway at the hands of John Galliano, MM6 is even wiser to establish itself as the place to shop for brand classics.