The clean and soft decoration of Alanui: between rigor and jungle cues
Extreme aesthetic cleanliness enlivened by embroidery and decorations: Alanui calls it a “clean and soft decoration”, which translates into garments with essential, rigorous, almost classic lines, reminiscent of pool-side photographs from Acapulco to Miami, from Saint Tropez to Capri, taken by the legendary American photographer…
Stella McCartney’s sustainable fashion enchants Paris
The classic lines and fabrics of the male wardrobe are the starting point of the new Stella McCartney proposals, more than ever in the spotlight after Lvmh announced its entry into the capital with a minority stake. On the platform a co-ed collection capable of…
Stories Embedded in the Fabric at McQueen
There have been seasons when Sarah Burton’s allegiance to her past crippled her own relevance. Time has a way of readjusting such perceptions Moon-bleached linen. It was an actual thing. Irish artisans would lie linen in the moonlight for a year until they achieved…
In the Garden of Giambattista Valli
This season, the designer marched forward with youthful élan Giambattista Valli owns consistency, but he is also not rigid. You attend his shows more or less knowing what he will deliver, yet he also adds surprises that push his own personal conversation forward. “I…
Givenchy, traveling from Paris to New York with the women of Clare
Clare Waight Keller brings Givenchy women from Paris to the Big Apple, between 90s atmospheres for power women and in micro tops and sharp skirts of leather, bleached jeans. But that for the evening we rediscover parisienne with floral dresses and crystal gowns. What the…
In the garden of the courtesans of Thom Browne
Observed by four human statues, the women of Thom Browne walk in a seersucker garden with courtesan hair of the Sun King and theatrical mossette They dress in basket clothes, flared jackets and corsets, all traversed by patterns of dolphins, rudders, old sailing ships…
Art Meets Science at Off-White
There may be something valedictory for Virgil Abloh’s skeptics in that the laurel wreath of fashion continues to elude him Virgil Abloh is a cultural aggregator, not a fashion designer. He assembles masses of input and then decides which vehicle is best suited to…
Gangway shirts, Gucci storm
White dresses that wink at the straitjackets. And from Gucci the storm breaks out The fashion show for the spring-summer 2020 of the Florentine fashion house that opened with some models wearing shirts very similar to those used in psychiatric hospitals did not go…
Artful Attenuation at Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello has proved himself accomplished at turning a relatively limited repertoire into a fully-fledged and remarkably convincing performance What’s particularly striking about “Loulou and Yves,” Christopher Petkanas’s recent oral history of the world of Yves Saint Laurent and his inspiratrice Loulou de la Falaise, is…
D&G jungle conquers Milan’s catwalks
Dolce & Gabbana begin each of their shows with the soundtrack of Il Gattopardo, Visconti’s classic film about the Resurgence. Leopard: Leopard’s close relative And so, last weekend even D&G’s invitation was in leopard print, though the clothes referred to another era of optimism:…