The Exotic manga of GCDS
In the shadow of a giant dinosaur, Giuliano Calza gives his audience of fans a collection that mixes teenage memories, manga psychedelia and Hawaiian suggestions with guaranteed commercial success Irreverent, ironic, sometimes unscrupulous, the GCDS collection for spring summer 2020 is a hilarious manga…
Why LVMH Struck a Deal with Stella McCartney
The ethical fashion label will hardly move the needle for LVMH, but could help the group boost its sustainability credentials, which are seen to be lagging arch rival and former owner Kering at a time when consumers and regulators are taking notice A little…
Givenchy teams up with Onitsuka Tiger
Givenchy‘s French savoir-faire meets Onitsuka Tiger’s Japanese know-how. Last night the brand of the Lvmh group, special guest of Pitti Uomo, has not only presented its men’s collection S / S 2020, but also revealed the beginning of a long partnership with the Japanese brand…
Gaultier in the Mirror
Little coherence but plenty of amusement and mean feats of tailoring An inflated card announced the Gaultier Paris show today, but the theme of the collection — Jean Paul Gaultier works in themes — was not padding. It was, by and large, optical illusion…
Valentino’s Haute Humanism
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s insistence on diversity and inclusivity has brought couture down to earth at the same time as he has sent it soaring to heaven Pierpaolo Piccioli nurses a fantasy of a world where people live unbound by borders, free to express themselves. One…
Drama on the Mind at Givenchy
While the inspiration was raw, Clare Waight Keller’s collection offered a more refined vision captivated by an element of theatre — clothes for alt-Hollywood On Clare Waight Keller’s mood board, there was a photo of Jordan, the punk icon who launched a million eldritch…
A Symphony of Sculpted Shadows at Dior
It’s become clear that Dior has been Maria Grazia Chiuri’s path to personal enlightenment. And it seems like the more personal she makes it, the more it plays in the outside world “I could write a book about black,” said Christian Dior in 1954. Sixty-five years later,…
The Book of Chanel
With a library-themed show, Virginie Viard, Karl Lagerfeld’s anointed successor, proved that the storied French house was safe in her hands When Massive Attack’s “Safe from Harm” rang out at the finale of Chanel’s haute couture show for Autumn/Winter 2019, it sounded a note…
Giambattista Valli: A Man of Extremes
Opting for an exhibition format in lieu of a traditional show, the designer reaffirmed the unique DNA of his maison: a constant face-off between the unremitting precision of pure lines and the frivolity of flowery frills Giambattista Valli is a man of extremes. “Having collaborated…
Pure, Undiluted Giorgio Armani
Armani dished out the usual Giorgio Armani fare in soft tailoring, deconstruction and gentle masculinity, but the ease of the whole endeavour was particularly palpable There were big changes this season at Armani. Emporio was shown in the usual venue, with a new set…