Givenchy, traveling from Paris to New York with the women of Clare
Clare Waight Keller brings Givenchy women from Paris to the Big Apple, between 90s atmospheres for power women and in micro tops and sharp skirts of leather, bleached jeans. But that for the evening we rediscover parisienne with floral dresses and crystal gowns. What the…
Art Meets Science at Off-White
There may be something valedictory for Virgil Abloh’s skeptics in that the laurel wreath of fashion continues to elude him Virgil Abloh is a cultural aggregator, not a fashion designer. He assembles masses of input and then decides which vehicle is best suited to…
Gangway shirts, Gucci storm
White dresses that wink at the straitjackets. And from Gucci the storm breaks out The fashion show for the spring-summer 2020 of the Florentine fashion house that opened with some models wearing shirts very similar to those used in psychiatric hospitals did not go…
Artful Attenuation at Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello has proved himself accomplished at turning a relatively limited repertoire into a fully-fledged and remarkably convincing performance What’s particularly striking about “Loulou and Yves,” Christopher Petkanas’s recent oral history of the world of Yves Saint Laurent and his inspiratrice Loulou de la Falaise, is…
D&G jungle conquers Milan’s catwalks
Dolce & Gabbana begin each of their shows with the soundtrack of Il Gattopardo, Visconti’s classic film about the Resurgence. Leopard: Leopard’s close relative And so, last weekend even D&G’s invitation was in leopard print, though the clothes referred to another era of optimism:…
The Exotic manga of GCDS
In the shadow of a giant dinosaur, Giuliano Calza gives his audience of fans a collection that mixes teenage memories, manga psychedelia and Hawaiian suggestions with guaranteed commercial success Irreverent, ironic, sometimes unscrupulous, the GCDS collection for spring summer 2020 is a hilarious manga…
Mulling the Great Then and Now at Versace, with J. Lo
Donatella’s jungle print was the gift that kept on giving on Friday night, all the way to the fabulous finale In fashion history, Friday night will forever be remembered for the five minutes it took Jennifer Lopez to break the Internet at the end of…
Pop culture what a passion: MSGM tenth anniversary is here
The organza, the tweed coats, the shirts with ruffles, the prints with giant roses. And Battiato and Alice singing the soundtrack Massimo Giorgetti’s brand, MSGM, celebrates ten years and celebrates them with this spring summer 2020 collection. And it parades in the garden of…
Fendi’s emotional summer
Fendi, buona la prima. La prima, perché è il primo pret-à-porter femminile senza Karl Lagerfeld, lo stilista tedesco scomparso nel febbraio scorso. E la prima perché è la collezione che segna il debutto come unico direttore creativo di Silvia Venturini Fendi. “E’ la prima volta…
Jil Sander’s Walk on the Wild Side
The idea of a Jil Sander woman exploring her wild side was electrifying on paper, but failed to materialise convincingly on the catwalk ‘Psychedelia’ — à la ’60s counterculture — is not the first thing you would associate with Jil Sander, a brand forever…