After Fellini, Jeremy Scott. The curtain has just fallen and the creative director of Moschino does not retain his enthusiasm
Conversing with Adnkronos, the histrionic designer, who has been at the helm of the Milanese label for 5 years, tells about his men’s collection and the pre-fall woman 2019-2020 just staged in the historic studio 10 of Cinecittà, as already announced by the Michele Franzese on December 13th.
Fifty-five outlets that pay homage to Fellini’s Rome and the mythical icons of Satyricon, 8 and ½ and the Dolce Vita.
The ruins of the Baths of Caracalla, transformed for one evening into a surreal and decadent ballroom. “It ‘s the first time we show in Rome, I’m thrilled – says Scott – I love this city, I love being here and seeing the Roman audience so enthusiastic, to see them applauding after the show was very exciting. This is a magical, absolutely magical city. One of the most glamorous places in the world ”
For the flagship brand of the Aeffe group, the eccentric creative director has outlined tweed tweed coats, embroidered with Latin letters and defined by bands of red and golden yellow satin.
On the platform, between grotesque valchirias and ladies in lingerie, here are the clowns, Cabiria and Giulietta degli spiriti, dancers glittering in tails and fringes.
They wear parka and bomber, armor with amphibians, mixing rococo wigs with elements of street style that are now the stylistic code of the American creative.
Evening dresses, on the other hand, are pure couture. Anita Ekberg is an opulent goddess swathed in ruby red.
The Satyricon wigs are monumental and can live with king crowns encrusted with precious stones and satin turbans. Roman mythological creatures are catapulted into different eras.
Scott rewinds and twists the Fellini universe.
The centurion armor is remixed with eveningwear for women and sportswear for men. The court dresses of the Italian nobility are shortened, cut and sectioned in a bodice worn on a ‘caged’ skirt that once again refers to the imagination of the legendary Italian director.
“Fellini is absolutely the person who inspired me most of all for this collection – says Scott – his masterpieces, all those fantastic characters he created, I started from his imagination and I tried to grasp the essence and then translate it into the clothes”.
Everywhere Fellini breathes: from the neon projected in the hall with his name to the embroidered skeletons on the jewel suits, passing through coats and bomber jackets. On stage, bare-chested centurions and sculpted muscles synthesize the pop soul of the brand.
Like the Moschino boy in amphibians and tutus.
Said so it seems crazy but nothing is ever excessive and everything is surreal when it comes to Jeremy Scott. His creative chaos also rears approval among the guests in the parterre: from Sandra Milo to Elisabetta Canalis via Claudia Gerini, the applause is unanimous.
“I was inspired by all the characters of Fellini – explains the designer – and Fellini himself because it is he who gave life to these fantastic characters, so different from each other. In the collection there is a little ‘Anita Ekberg, a bit’ of Sandra Milo, there are the goddesses of Satyricon, some of the characters of Eight and a Half. What I tried to do was capture all the different facets of these characters and recreate them on the catwalk “.
The last enfant terrible of fashion gets excited when, in the backstage, she embraces the last muse of Fellini, Sandra Milo. “She is, without a doubt, my favorite icon of Italian cinema,” he confesses.