PITTI UOMO n.97: at Fortezza da Basso from 7 to 10 January the men’s fashion and lifestyle collections for Autumn-Winter 2020-2021
Pitti Immagine Uomo, from 7 to 10 January 2020, brings to Florence the most important players in contemporary menswear and lifestyle. A plurality of voices that give life to unique moments of discovery and comparison. An increasingly multi-faceted experience, able to reveal the trends of the next season and at the same time offer inputs to understand, in preview, the challenges and strategies of global fashion retail. The winter edition of the show is colored with special projects coming from fashion scenes that stand out for creativity, respect for tradition and an eye on the future. Its increasingly precise sections offer a selection of brands that responds in a timely manner to the wishes of the market. While the program of special events and projects is enriched by prestigious protagonists. In a fluid and fast world, the style of Pitti Immagine is confirmed as the essential compass to guide the choices of the global fashion community.
MISE’S SPECIAL CONTRIBUTION AND ICE AGENCY
This edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo benefits from the special contribution of the Ministry of Economic Development and ICE Agency to support Made in Italy fairs. The contribution is dedicated to strengthening hospitality, media relations and advertising activities.
SHOW YOUR FLAGS AT PITTI:
the theme of winter salons
This time Pitti talks about flags. A rectangle of fabric, an inlay of lines, colors, designs: the Pitti Immagine flag flies in the shot made by the great photographer reporter Franco Pagetti for the winter salons campaign. Fabrics that are always in motion, like those of the clothes we wear, and that like clothes are mobile symbols of identity, of belonging, of thought, of feeling. The flag is never a silent fabric, it always says something, it always arouses an emotion because it speaks according to universal messages. She is expressive, enthusiastic, insolent. It fluctuates, falls, drops, rises, moves, bends, flies. The flags are also beautiful geometric compositions, they produce a pleasure in seeing them waving. Pitti is like the United Nations of Fashion, where each brand has its own flag, but also where each of us can become a flag of itself. At the Fortezza da Basso, “Show Your Flags at Pitti” will be staged, with the art direction of Angelo Figus and the set design by Alessandro Moradei.
The special guests of this edition
JIL SANDER, GUEST DESIGNER PITTI UOMO 97
Jil Sander will be the guest designer of Pitti Uomo 97. Lucie and Luke Meier – creative co-directors of Jil Sander from spring 2017 – will present the new menswear collection of the iconic German fashion house with a special event in Florence.
STEFANO PILATI, PITTI SPECIAL GUEST
Stefano Pilati is the Special Guest at Pitti Uomo 97 with his independent label “Random Identities”. With over three decades of activity in the international fashion world, Pilati is considered one of the most influential designers of his generation. The presentation of the FW 20-20 collection in the days of the show will be an opportunity to capture the essence of this new project.
TELFAR, SPECIAL PROJECT PITTI UOMO 97
The Telfar unisex brand will be the Special Project of the next Pitti Uomo. The founder Telfar Clemens, who launched the line in New York in 2005, will present his concept of fluid fashion and ‘simplex’ (simple + complex) in Florence, with a special event where aesthetics, identity and functionality come together in a unique project.
PITTI CELEBRATES THE 75th ANNIVERSARY OF BRIONI
Pitti Immagine celebrates the 75th anniversary of one of the most famous men’s luxury fashion houses with a special event in Florence. The event at Pitti Uomo, curated by Olivier Saillard, will present the new autumn-winter 2020 collection in a celebration of the brand’s history.
Among the special participations in this edition:
More and more brands and fashion groups, including exhibitors at the show and brands that have participated in Pitti Uomo, decide to present themselves in Florence and celebrate important moments of their evolution with events and special initiatives in the city.
BLAUER PRESENTS HUMAN LANDSCAPES
FGF Industry Blauer Anniversary @ Pitti Immagine Uomo
Photography James Mollison, edited by Felice Limosani
FGF Industry celebrates its twentieth anniversary in collaboration with Pitti Immagine Uomo, presenting an immersive exhibition of the Blauer brand at the Florence Customs Office. A road trip in the United States made for Blauer by the British photographer James Mollison: a visual narration of landscapes and authentic characters, through a real American cross-section of our times. The exhibition will be inaugurated on Tuesday 7 January and will be open to the public from Wednesday 8 January until Friday 10 January.
THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY OF CHEVIGNON @ PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
The French brand Chevignon celebrates its 40th anniversary with a special event at Pitti Uomo, staged Tuesday, January 7 at the Spazio Alcatraz of Stazione Leopolda. A fashion show with which the brand celebrates this important anniversary and starts its new course.
WOOLRICH CELEBRATES THE 190TH ANNIVERSARY
WITH A SPECIAL INSTALLATION
On the occasion of the 190th anniversary of the brand, Woolrich returns to Pitti Uomo 97 with “The Ultimate Woolrich Experience”, at La Dogana in Florence. An installation on three rooms, a unique and immersive experience on the multi-faceted universe of Woolrich, in which the Woolrich Arctic Capsule will be presented for the first time, a tribute to the evolution of the iconic Arctic Parka.
THE SPECIAL EVENT OF SERGIO TACCHINI @ PITTI UOMO
The Italian sportswear brand collaborates with Pitti Uomo to present a retrospective signed by Sergio Tacchini that celebrates the unmistakable heritage of the brand, and to turn the spotlight on the new collection, which was born under the direction of a new property and the new Global Creative Director Dao -Yi Chow.
THE K-WAY® ICONIC BRAND PROTAGONIST OF A SPECIAL EVENT IN FLORENCE
On the occasion of Pitti Uomo, Wednesday 8 January, an event dedicated to K-Way® and to the rain cover par excellence entered in the dictionaries. A journey through the history of the brand through its iconic products, as a key to understanding the present and accessing the future.
Special projects and events at the Fortezza da Basso
Formalities / a question of quality
For the 97th edition of Pitti Uomo, DUST MAGAZINE will curate a fashion show-event held at the Fortezza da Basso. A new project that explores what is probably one of the major contributions given by the men’s fashion show: overcoming the boundaries of what can be considered formal and the rules of elegant dress. A continuous exercise that in various editions managed to put together apparently very distant elements, such as the sartorial taste and the codes of the most classic styles, with casual clothing and sportswear. The result is a new equation between quality and innovation that has transformed the contemporary definition of formal.
These aspects of everyday wear for everyday man will be celebrated by the magazine, with its original point of view, in a special show: a selection of clothes and looks by Italian and international brands participating in the show will come out of the stands, for walk in the open spaces of the Fortezza da Basso. Interacting with the public and asking the question: “What is the new formal today?”
THINK GREEN: From Waste to New Materials
The Lyceum space will become, for the first time, “a place of ideas” for a positive and proactive reflection on a conscious production and eco-design. The space, conceived by Andrea Caputo – an architectural firm that signs international retail projects with an open vision on new materials, born with the concept of recycling, reuse, use of “waste” – will host an installation as a point and concrete starting point to rebuild and think about spaces according to a contemporary vision.
A sort of island around which – as an integral part – there will be a series of talks, dialogues, monologues, comparisons, short but intense provocations, curated by Angela Rui, design critic and curator. A sort of dialectical corollary to the exhibition: different and authoritative voices that do not necessarily belong to the world of fashion and that will tell, in the first person, their holistic and positive approach to the planet today, to the change taking place. Participates in the Reda project, leader in the production of sustainable fabrics in pure Merinos wool.
News @ Pitti Uomo 97:
highlights, debuts and previews at this edition
_ Herno and Herno Laminar present their world and their collections AI2021 in a new and unique exhibition space, the 400 square meters of the Teatrino Lorenese;
_ Closed x Nigel Cabourn: the closed German contemporary design brand and the famous British designer Nigel Cabourn have combined creative visions in a new fall / winter 2020 collection. Naval-inspired looks for men and women will be unveiled for the first time aimed at Pitti Uomo 97;
_ The historic Falke brand, known for its legwear, socks and high quality clothing collections, celebrates the 125th anniversary with a special presentation at Pitti Uomo 97, in honor of its history that is projected into the future.
_ Sergio Rossi participates for the first time at Pitti Uomo 97 for the global launch of the exclusive Sergio Rossi Uomo project, which will be presented at the Sprone area of the Fortezza da Basso;
_ Bosco: the brand of the Russian group Bosco di Ciliegi – known for the Olympic experience and the clothing line for sports competitions – will be presented for the first time at Pitti Uomo with a special location in the central square of the Fortezza da Basso: a curling track that reflects the brand’s focus on active lifestyle;
_ Arc’teryx Veilance (Canada), F / CE (Japan) and Rolf Ekroth (Finland) are among the new brands to report to this Pitti Uomo, in the I Go Out section;
_ Among the special presentations at Futuro Maschile: the return of Sealup, a leading brand for “Rainwear” and “Outerwear” entirely Made in Italy; and Côte & ciel, the Parisian brand of backpacks, bags and accessories that combines a spirit of fashion and an industrial design attitude;
_ Karl Lagerfeld returns to Pitti Uomo with “A Tribute to Karl: The White Shirt Project”: the exhibition project curated by Carine Roitfeld, Style Advisor for the fashion house, will present a customized edition of the designer’s famous white shirt, created by a group of artists, actors, models, designers and friends, including Cara Delevingne, Lewis Hamilton, Tommy Hilfiger, Sebastien Jondeau, Kate Moss and Takashi Murakami;
_ The return to Pitti Uomo of HUNTER, the British heritage brand whose collection includes the unmistakable and iconic rain boots;
_ The debut at Pitti Uomo, in a space in the Monumental area, of the luxury sportswear brand JET SET, founded in St. Moritz in 1969 and now under the creative direction of Michael Michalsky.
_ Daoyuan Ding, the Chinese designer who won the ITS – International Talent Support Award debuts at Pitti Uomo presenting his collection and his creative figure within the Unconventional section;
THE LAUNCH OF THE “MY WARDROBE MAN OUTERWEAR TO INNOVATE WOOL CRAFTMANSHIP” PROJECT
At Pitti Uomo 97 – with a special installation at the Central Pavilion – “MY WARDROBE: MAN OUTERWEAR TO INNOVATE WOOL CRAFTMANSHIP”: a project by The Woolmark Company, sponsored by the “Campaign For Wool – patron HRH Prince of Wales” , developed by the students of the Costume & Fashion Academy, with the collaboration of Maison Valentino and Dyloan Bond Factory. Key words of the project: Wool, Craftmanship, Innovation, Identity.
Projects on new fashion design scenarios
SCANDINAVIAN MANIFESTO: new location, new format!
Pitti Immagine, in collaboration with Revolver Copenhagen, presents the fourth edition of Scandinavian Manifesto. In the new location of Sala del Rondino, a unique selection of brands that brings Northern European collections and designers to Florence. For a focus on one of the most popular fashion scenes globally. Emerging designers and more established brands from Denmark, Sweden and Norway will enliven a space set up with Nordic taste and atmosphere. Among the presences already confirmed at this edition: 7DAYS, Chimi Eyewear, Garment Project, Han Kjøbenhavn, Hgbbstudio, Magnified, Mads Nørgaard-Copenhagen, mfpen, Norse Projects, Organic Basics, Rains, Rue de Tokyo, Sneum, Soulland, Sunflower, Tonsure , Unridden.
JAPAN CREATIVITY NOW
_ ANREALAGE debuts at Pitti Uomo with TOKYO KNIT
Always working at the intersection of tradition and innovation, Pitti Uomo 97 brings the history and future of Japanese knitwear to the spotlight in the special area dedicated to TOKYO KNIT on the Top Floor of the Central Pavilion. Combining the centuries-old tradition of the Samurai and the high speed technology and avant-garde production of today’s Japan, the TOKYO KNIT platform will present a collaboration with the creative talent of Kunihiko Morinaga, founder of ANREALAGE. Known for integrating technology into its avant-garde garments, the Japanese designer and finalist of the LVMH 2019 award debuts at Pitti Uomo with the TOKYO KNIT x ANREALAGE capsule, inspired by contemporary Tokyo.
_A Touch! the return of the TOKYO FASHION AWARD finalists and WHITE LEATHER PROJECT
Touch! will be the sophisticated container of two special projects dedicated to emerging names and the most creative fashion scene from Japan. A new episode of the collaboration with the Tokyo Fashion Award, 6 emerging brands selected by a prestigious jury for the competition: Fumie Tanaka, Ihnn, Meanswhile, Re: Qual, Shoop, Yuki Hashimoto. And again, The White Leather Project brings to Florence the new products of four Japanese brands – Ed Robert Judson, Kozaburo, Mary at Terna andMidorikawa Ryo – specializing in the crafting of white leather, an ancient technique practiced only in the Himeji area.
THE CHINA ENERGY
Pitti Uomo continues to scout the Chinese creative scene, presenting a new project that will make Chinese designers and brands with a high rate of fashion research protagonists in the show. At the Arena Strozzi, a special area will present a selection of collections curated by Labelhood, a fashion incubator of emerging designers and one of the most innovative retailers in China, in collaboration with V / Collective. Among the designers who have already confirmed their participation there are: Fabric Porn, Ffixxed studio, Garcon, Pcycl, Roarlingwild, Songta, Untitlab and Ximon Lee.
Among the events on the Pitti Uomo calendar:
FISKARS BY MARIA KORKEILA
Among the special events at Pitti Uomo 97, the Finnish brand Fiskars, known throughout the world for its quality items and tools for home and gardening – including the famous orange-handled scissors – will launch its first clothing collection and accessories designed by Maria Korkeila. Finalist at the International Festival de Mode et de Photographie in Hyères and winner of the 2017 Schiaparelli Prize, the Finnish textile and fashion designer created 11 unisex looks in a workwear-meets-streetwear style, made with biological, recycled materials and vegan leather, which will be presented at Palazzo Pucci January 7, 2020, within the series of events “Finnish Palace”, launched by Juni Communications and SSAW Magazine.
The Pitti Uomo SECTIONS:
the different souls of contemporary menswear
PITTI UOMO section:
The heart of the Pitti Uomo section, the Central Pavilion tells the evolution of menswear and its design contaminations. From brands that re-read the lesson of tailoring and interpret the new luxury of the male wardrobe, to collections in dialogue with the other worlds of Pitti Uomo.
And alongside the companies present at the Central Pavilion, the contemporary classic universe also develops through a series of brands that choose independent spaces inside the Fortress. Among the leading brands at this edition: A.Testoni, Allen Edmonds, Alpha Studio, Altea, At.P.Co, Bagutta, Barba Napoli, Barker Black, Begg & Co, Bencivenga, Brooksfield, Brunello Cucinelli, Bruno Manetti Cashmere, Cheaney Shoes, Chevignon, Deperlu, Doucal’s, Drake’s, Drumohr, Specimen, Falke, Felisi, Fratelli Rossetti, Gray Daniele Alessandrini, Hand Picked, Herno, Joop !, Kired, Winters, LAB – Pal Zileri, LBM 1911, Lardini, Sartoria Latorre, Ludwig Reiter, Malo, Manuel Ritz, Nobis, Paoloni, Paraboot, Paul & Shark Yachting, PT Turin, King – Hash, Roy Roger’s, Santaniello, Schneiders, Stetson, Stewart, Tagliatore, Tatras, The Bridge , Top Gun, Tramontano, Ubr, Wool & Co, Xacus.
the new menswear wardrobe
An indispensable chapter of menswear elegance, the contemporary classic distinguishes the collections proposed by Futuro Maschileal at Sala delle nations, Arena Strozzi and Piazzale delle Ronde. A brand new and transversal mix, ranging from ultra-selected and research outfits to those with a soul focused on sportswear. From edition to edition, the perspective of this section expands to evaluate and propose the most innovative options in the male wardrobe. Among the leading brands at this edition: Cote & Ciel, Doppiaa, Dotz, East Harbor Surplus, Emanuele Bicocchi, Fortela, Henderson, Holubar, Ikiji, J.Press, Jacques Solovière Paris, Lavenham, Man1924, O’Keeffe, Pezzol 1951, Pierre Louis Mascia, Rewoolution, Roberto Collina, Rov, Scaglione, Sealup, Sunspel, Teatora, Ten C, Trajan, Yatay.
i POP UP STORES:
The Pop Up Stores present a transversal proposal reserved for lifestyle products of the male wardrobe: eyewear, shoes, bags and travel accessories, but also design objects. An always new and surprising selection, which follows the most current rules of the exhibition game. Among the brands at this edition in the Pop Up at the Central Pavilion: Bucklesbury, Foster & Son, Geofre, David Hampton, Kanpekina, Kinloch, La Portegna, Lollipet, Mariella Martinato, Moaconcept, Oriental Shoemaker, Pier Sicilia, Pig & Hen, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear, The Cambridge Satchel Company, Ulturale.
mirror of my desires
Hi Beauty is an extension of Pitti Fragranze, the Pitti Immagine show dedicated to the world of international artistic perfumery. On the Lower Floor of the Central Pavilion, an exclusive choice of international brands with their fragrances for the person and the environment, body care products, research on cosmetic specialties. Among the brands that have already joined this edition: Farmacia Ss. Annunziata Dal 1561, Fornasetti, Morph Parfum, Stefanoraffa.
The most experimental and innovative brands meet at the Medici Pavilion. Touch! is the section that combines internationality with stylistic research, and projects them forward. The set-up designed by Andrea Caputo Studio contributes to creating an ultra-contemporary atmosphere in which designers with a more eclectic personality move. Among the leading brands at this edition: 1×1 Studio, Beton Cire, Brady Bags, Brandblack, Buttero, Captain Santors, Children Of The Discordance, Cini Venice, Country of Origin, Danton, De Bonne Facture, Delirious Eyewear, Drm, Grenson, Hansen , Harris Wharf London, Ioweyou, JBJ, Knitbrary, Le mont Saint Michel, Manifattura Ceccarelli, Nanamica, Nilmance, Peppino Peppino Denim, Raglan United, Seil Marschall, Superduper Hats, The Tweed Project, Welter Shelter, Yuketen.
THE OTHER MAN:
look at the more eclectic future
The Other Man has always defined the most advanced stylistic avant-gardes on show at Pitti Uomo. Within a layout designed by Andrea Caputo Studio, in the Arsenale and in the adjacent spaces, a series of clothing and accessory collections reflects a creativity capable of anticipating trends. Among the brands at this edition: Ahirain, Barbed, Bask In The Sun, Bellwood, Cellardoor, Crossley, D.A.T.E., Edmmond Studios, Eribé, G.R.P., Gitman Bros. East 1978, Gloverall, Grunge John Orchestra. Explosion, Haver Sack, Lemargo, Maison Labiche, Majestic Filatures Paris, Moonstar, Oliver Spencer, Original Madras Trading Co., Overlordbrand, Pantanetti, The.Nim, Universal Works.
I GO OUT:
outdoor passion meets fashion
The passion for the outdoors, the performance of materials and the continuous stylistic research come together in the I Go Out project, now a consolidated appointment for Pitti Uomo. Here there are concentrated outerwear collections with impeccable design, highly functional proposals but of great aesthetic impact, garments and accessories so versatile that they become indispensable elements of the male wardrobe. At the Sala della Ronda, with a layout by Andrea Caputo Studio. The brands at this edition: And Wander, Arys, Arctic Explorer, Arc’teryx Veilance, Danner, Déplacé, Descente Allterrain, Diemme, Element & Griffin Studio “Future Nature”, F / CE, Goldwin, Gramicci, Griffin, Heimplanet, Hoka One One Sky, Ræburn, Rolf Ekroth, Sease, Serac, Snow Peak, Teva, Topo Designs, Woolrich Outdoor.
new perspectives, between premium streetstyle and avant-garde dimension
The Unconventional streetstyle is multi-expressive: gritty in design, luxury in details, hyper-technical in materials. The proposals in this section interpret the contemporary and its demands, transporting the fashion attitude into a current dimension, athletic-minded and agender. To the Archives, with a layout by Storage Associati. Among the brands present at this edition: Airinum, Alphastyle, Aprvd, Benton.685, Cinzia Araia, Daoyuan Ding, Duren, Gen-Y, Goti, Huemn, Ksenia Schnaider, Limited, Reinhard Plank, Rbrsl, Red September, Rh45, Taiga Liona, Transit Man, Unimatic, Vanadio23, Vfts, Walter van Beirendonck for Flower Mountain, Ylati Footwear.
International DNA for I Play, the circuit that includes the Cavaniglia Pavilion and a series of independent spaces created to express the mood that has moved the boundaries of sportswear forward. In the foreground, a style that creatively links the ways of urban living to the outfit of authentic sports. Among the brands at this edition: Armani Exchange, Barbour, Blundstone, Canadian, Closed X Nigel Cabourn, Colmar Originals, Diadora, Eastpak, Ecoalf, Edwin, Element, Fusalp, Herschel Supply Co., Hoka One One, In The Box, Invicta , Karhu, Karl Lagerfeld, Le Coq Sportif, Lotto Legend, Lyle & Scott, Mizuno, OOF Wear, Outhere, Parka London, Pony, Rossignol, Rrd Roberto Ricci Designs, Sperry, Sun68, Swims, Tretorn, Veja Fair Trade, Vibram, Vuarnet.
fashion and the city
The determination of the metropolis, its style: it is Urban Panorama, a territory open to those who thirst for freedom, between biker inspiration and ethnic influences. Denim lives with its infinite interpretations. Password, overlap and mix shapes, materials and styles. Among the brands in this edition protagonists at the Armory, Fureria and in another series of neighboring spaces: American College Usa, Anerkjendt, Atlantic stars, Ben Sherman, Best company, Cotton Belt, Ellesse, Fila, Haikure, Just Over The Top (JOTT), Kangol, Krakatau, Museum The Original, P448, Vagabond Shoemakers, W6yz.
youth generation gang
The ever creative budding expressions of metropolitan culture, in their links between technology, music, art and design, have found fertile territory in My Factory. At the Lyceum, a perfect setting for enhancing youth cultures 2.0 and the most vibrant laboratories in the urban and sportswear sector. Among the brands at this edition: Arcminute, G.H. Bass & Co., Bluebuck, Bricktown World, Globe, Impala, Mou, Primitive Skateboarding, The Bakery Mfg. Co.
NEWS FROM THE DIGITAL WORLD OF PITTI!
Do you want to better prepare your visit to Pitti Uomo? On our site and on the PITTISMART App you will find all the new online services of e-PITTI, which from this edition tells in more detail the brands and products offered by each exhibitor already in preview, exclusively to registered buyers. It is an opportunity to facilitate networking and maximize your business and communication contacts, before, during and after the event. Don’t miss all the digital news, stay tuned!
Among the events in the city on the Pitti Uomo calendar:
TRAILBLAZER Chiara Boni
In the days of Pitti Uomo 97 Chiara Boni presents her first men’s collection, TRAILBLAZER Chiara Boni, on stage in her new Boutique in Florence. The 4 must-have capsule is produced entirely in Italy with a truly sustainable approach.
CELEBLUEATION by Renato Balestra opens at the Zeffirelli Foundation
The anthological exhibition of 300 sketches, drawings and clothes by Renato Balestra, personally chosen by the international couturier who has elegantly dressed queens, princesses, first ladies and international personalities, opens at the Zeffirelli Foundation on 8 January. The exhibition tells the story of the myth, the character and the eclectic artist behind the Italian fashion house that has managed to keep the family tradition alive, combining it with a strong management structure.
STUDIO 24: A CALL FOR TALENT The Istituto Marangoni Firenze competition
On the occasion of Pitti Uomo 97, Istituto Marangoni Firenze presents a unique competition, offering young talents the opportunity to develop and exhibit their best art / fashion creations in a prestigious Florentine location.