Moschino, Cubist rhapsody

Moschino, Cubist rhapsody

There is Spain and Cubism. The bullfighting and the brushstrokes of color in freedom that go up, until they color the pulled chignons. It parades Moschino and it’s immediately show. Jeremy Scott’s spring summer 2020 is a tribute, not too veiled, to the masters of Cubist art. Picasso in the first place, but there is no shortage of cultured quotes to Braque and Dali. Super tops on the catwalk rip through the canvas and turn into living artworks. Irina Shayk, little sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid, Joan Smalls and Kaia Gerber become, for one night, the muses of the painter, among fringes of multicolored beads, exasperated straps and bullfighter outfits.

Very chic, indeed bull-chic, as you would say, if you could admire it, Franco Moschino. We’re at Milan’s Ice Palace, but it could be a Seville painter’s studio. Has anyone seen Paloma? Here she is, climbing in the bichrome of black and white, in women with deconstructed faces, in cornely white embroidery.

There is Guernica and the Harlequin, The Weeping Woman, the Crying Woman, impossible not to recognize her in the folds of the tissues. Trompe l’oeil and Spanish quotes, such as the matador or flamenco dancers, then resort to the red and black polka dots drawn by hand or in blazers and torero-inspired dresses. There is also a special hat depicting a bull mask unmistakably designed by Stephen Jones.

And then the theme of music. Musical notes and instruments climb on clothes and accessories such as a violin, guitar bag or balloon dress with musical score. Kaia Gerber literally steps out of the frame with a maxi guitar minidress on the front. And the frame also runs on the maxi gold metal buckles used to stop and create drapes in clothes, shoes, handbags.