Let’s discover the most beautiful catwalk shows of the first 3 days of Milan Fashion Week s/s 2024
Milan Fashion Week s/s 2024
The long-awaited event, Milan Fashion Week for Men Spring Summer 2024, has kicked off! Let’s discover the most beautiful fashion shows of the first 3 days of Milan Fashion Week s/s 2024 and the big news of the top brands that Michele Franzese Moda has chosen to tell you about. Here’s a recap of Milan Fashion Week Day 1/3:
1017 ALYX 9SM
Matthew M. Williams presented a spring-summer 2024 collection that embodies his refined aesthetic taste by focusing on harmony between the aesthetic and functional planes. The 1017 ALYX 9SM fashion show conveyed the message of the creative director’s community in a direct and incisive manner. The men’s collection for spring summer 2024 is characterised by a structured wardrobe, with tailored garments reinterpreted in an urban key. Trousers and sleeveless jackets in treated leather alternate with breathable jumpers made from experimental knitwear. This is complemented by sturdy boots and flat shoes made in collaboration with Vibram. Matthew M. Williams’ creative practice is based on assembling and adding distinctive elements into his collection. These elements, true to the brand’s language, are revisited and renewed on a sleek and functional silhouette. The result is fresh and bold daywear that perfectly harmonises functionality and aesthetics, all without apparent effort.
Dean and Dan Caten conceive fashion as a party that takes place in the residence of a Palm Beach country club. But also as a set where the film to be shot is one of a life embracing sensuality, featuring Rocco Siffredi. The Dsquared2 co-ed collection for spring/summer 2024, presented through a fashion show set in a decidedly evocative set “tells of a classy elegance, a world that embraces fashion, city and country, with psychedelic motifs that express a snobbish and refined essence. It is also undeniably sensual, or rather, sexual,” Dean and Dan Caten declare, alternating their words backstage in the festive atmosphere that follows the show. The double entendre lurks around every corner and garment. The pink tweed miniskirt and jacket evoke memories of a tailored suit, just as tweed makes up a jacket and Bermuda shorts for the men. Rocco Siffredi embodies a living double entendre, a man of show business and action, as well as an entrepreneur, walking the catwalk in a blue jacket, jeans and a red T-shirt with the inscription VIP (which, they whisper in the room, can mean very important person or penis). Even the classic tennis jumper has transparent stripes on the sides, strategically placed to reveal the side hollow of the abdominal muscles before revealing the six-pack pattern (often referred to as a ‘six-pack’). As Donna Summer’s timeless hit begins to play, we realise there is a touch of snobbery within this Palm Beach residence.
For the delivery of Milan Fashion Week Day 1/3, the all-Italian brand could not miss: Lardini. Lardini Uomo Spring Summer 2024 is an exciting journey into the charm and atmosphere of North Africa. An exploration into the soul of a man who embraces his past and opens up to the future. The Spring Summer 2024 collection takes inspiration from primordial elements, evoking the atmosphere of an imaginary desert that gives chromatic suggestions and shapes to a slender silhouette, essential yet refined in every detail: from the precious jewel buttons to the gold threads that run through the fabrics of the shirts and the surfaces of the refined evening jackets, illuminated as the stars dot the night in the Sahara; from the footwear that recalls the comfort of babouches – made in collaboration with Lidfort – to the unexpected pendant jewels that take on the function of talismans. The aesthetic suggestions are deliberately jagged, telling a story that recalls the dandyism of the 1930s, the Hollywood chic of the 1940s and the tapered proportions of the 1970s, but reinterpreted with a solid desire for change. The initial spark was sparked by a dreamy, indistinct trip to North Africa, inspired by the novel ‘Tea in the Desert’ by Paul Bowles, later transposed into Bernardo Bertolucci’s film, but without resorting to folkloristic references or literal reproductions. A scrupulous search for finishes, a commitment to perfection in every detail, in a balance between sobriety and boldness, between simple lines and rich details, for an elegance without ostentation. The trench coat, the true iconic garment of the season, stands out for its surprising fluidity thanks to special fabrics that create straw effects, iridescent textures and three-dimensional patterns, as in the single-colour knitwear enriched with an elegant zigzag pattern. Colour runs through a range of shades from white, ivory, baby blue to oasis green, sunset pink, sand, golden beige, finally embracing rosewood and ending in total black. Lardini celebrated the presentation of the spring summer 2024 collection with a big party presided over by renowned international DJs Henri Bergmann and Patrice Baumel, at the evocative location of the Triennale.
The MSGM Men’s Spring Summer 2024 collection represents a moment of growth for Massimo Giorgetti, the founder and soul of the brand. “It is an extremely personal collection, born from my trip to Tanzania, where I loved photographing the sunrise, that moment when the dream stops and a new day begins. I took the photos with my mobile phone and then reproduced them on the garments, some of them became prints, others were made with jacquard work. I think it is a moment of personal growth and a reflection on growth itself’. Massimo Giorgetti challenges designer stereotypes, inspired by a journey that gives life to the new collection. Crossing Tanzania and capturing the sunrise, he creates a line that narrates his personal growth and that of the brand. The art of tailoring and the colours of the dawn come together in an ‘off-road dream’, with tailored jackets that are slightly oversized on the shoulders and long on the hips, similar to coats. The brand itself is growing, opening up to an audience beyond current perceptions of the brand. The designer, Massimo Giorgetti, is also moving away from the expectations of his audience. His desire to grow is evident in his backstage account of the collection. He is not afraid to quote the stereotype of the designer who is inspired by a trip to an exotic country and then creates his collection based on memories, suggestions and ethnic themes of the place. Surprisingly, Giorgetti is not afraid to challenge this cliché and states it without hesitation, in no uncertain terms. On the contrary, he says: ‘I wanted it to be evident, even decisive, because this is no time to be indecisive. I think we are going through a very difficult period’. Hence the words ‘Duro’ on the visor of the hatbox and on the jeans embroidered in black on black, with a blatant challenge to the double meaning. But why ‘tough’ and ‘toughness’? To assert positions and points of view, of course. The collection features jacquard suits with loose-fitting jackets and tailored trousers, as well as frayed cotton suits reminiscent of zebra stripes, like the prints that recall the patterns of grazing animals encountered on the African plains. Pictures of the sun rising at dawn, shy but radiant in its colours, characterise T-shirts, trousers and tank tops, transforming the wardrobe into a savannah. “Night visions fade away and other visions take shape: it is nature revealing itself in its purest aspect, while wonders materialise, blurring the boundaries between reality and imagination,” Giorgetti concludes. A poetic and cultured romanticism, fascinated by Africa, but at the same time aware that, even in the world of fashion, you either grow or stand still.
Giorgio Armani is inspired by the shape of the ginkgo biloba flower to create a striking collection with a Zen-like, calm and tranquil flavour that embodies the essence of an accomplished and conflict-free man. And to top it all off, he also unveils the uniforms for the Paris 2024 Olympic athletes. It is truly amazing how Giorgio Armani embarks on a journey to the Rising Sun, not physically, but through memories and the delicate scent of ginkgo biloba, to create the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2024 Men’s Collection. It is well known how much Armani loves Japan and how he has assimilated the Zen spirit and the clean, linear and essential aesthetics that detach themselves from conventional shapes and the complexities of volumes, everything that does not belong to the quietness of the eye and the soul. Also surprising is his ability to surprise with his cadet line, which he loved and which revolutionised fashion in the 1980s with the Aquilotto and jeans. And surprising is his ability to manage proportions that do not belong to the Western vision in which he was born, raised and has helped to define over the last fifty years. Jackets that button sideways or overlap one side on top of the other with a drawstring, blouses that drape on one side of the neck, long shirts like tunics that act as trench coats or fit under waistcoats, coming out like the tunics of animist monks. The fan-shaped flower, worked in jacquard, invades the surfaces of the jackets, while floral carvings decorate the front of the garments. The collection takes its inspiration from the flower, a plant with a history of 250 million years, capable of adapting to times and environments. The ginkgo symbolically represents elegance and endurance, a metaphor for a style that is both timely and timeless, as stated in the collection notes, reflecting the consistency of Armani’s history. “Coherence means being able to evolve while remaining true to oneself. In this collection there is a vague exoticism that is dear to me, with a taste for shapes that fit the body, but the expression is new: dynamic, synthetic, contemporary.” Therein lies the metaphor of Giorgio Armani and his fashion, which allows for excursions into very different fields.
Kiton unveils the new SS24 men’s collection. Elegance, precision and continuity take centre stage in Kiton’s new Spring Summer 2024 collection for men. Renowned for excellence in Italian tailoring, Kiton has created a range of simple, clean and impeccable garments designed to allow men to embrace summer while remaining true to themselves. Casual and elegant. Kiton now extends its gaze beyond its deeply rooted and recognisable DNA, synonymous with classic jackets, suits and shirts that have become their hallmark. The brand focuses on a selection that strikes a balance between casual and elegant, while maintaining a fluid connection between past, present and future – a relentless search for the absolute best materials. Luxury yarns from the world of knitwear, the finest linen and cotton shirting fabrics, and Japanese nylon with special finishes for padded jackets show not only the versatility of garments designed to meet every need, but also a dynamic elasticity that reminds us of fashion’s constant quest for change and nuance. Rooted in tradition. From super-lightweight cashmere and linen polo shirts to casual jackets layered over sweatshirts, from suede waistcoats to cool wool jumpers that eschew the rigidity imposed by tradition, the collection transforms the concept of the suit. Lightweight jacquard jackets with an inverted ‘K’ pattern and cotton-linen jumpers in shades of beige and emerald green redefine modern tailoring. Remarkable are the appearances of reversible nylon padded jackets with cashmere linings, as well as linen suits, which are the highlight of the collection, in various fascinating combinations. From shirts to suits, this collection effortlessly transitions from a half-day at the beach to a vibrant evening of aperitifs and dinners accompanied by effervescence and joy. From vibrant green polo shirts to orange and white geometric patterns, reminiscent of the masterpieces of Paul Klee and Philippe Malo, the collection captures intense light blue tones reflecting the sea and clear August skies, as well as the deep carmine red of an ultra-soft linen jacket. The collection is a testimony to simplicity and cleanliness, embodying the quality and research that Kiton has always pursued for men who know exactly who they want to be. Elegance, precision and continuity are more than just key words in Kiton’s new men’s collection: they are the guiding principles that shape each garment. With an unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and an eye for detail, Kiton continues to redefine men’s fashion, offering a seamless blend of timeless sophistication and contemporary style. Impossible not to talk about it for our Milan Fashion Week Day 1/3 recap.
Brioni surprises with the presentation of its summer collection, set on a terrace on the top floor of a skyscraper overlooking Milan. The entire collection is dedicated to lightness, offering a relaxed sartorial approach in both fit and construction. Wider volumes and emptied shoulders characterise the garments, expressing Brioni’s informal interpretation of formal wear, without compromising the perfection of workmanship. The same sartorial attention to detail is also reflected in sportswear and casual wear, with tailored blazers, field jackets, duster coats, trench coats, blousons and bomber jackets, along with shirts and polo shirts. During the evenings, lightness is transformed into a delicate luminosity on evening jackets, characterised by silk shawl collars and jacquard peaked lapels. Fluidity also inspires a selection of garments designed especially for women, including blazers, trousers and shirts, as well as trench coats, sleeveless coats, evening jackets and long dresses that draw inspiration directly from menswear, using the same fabrics and colours.
Concluding our Milan Fashion Week Day 1/3 recap we find the iconic Etro. Marco De Vincenzo celebrates his first year at the helm of the renowned Milanese label by presenting a collection that bears witness to a constant exchange between him and the brand’s history, with symbols in prints and precious fabrics. Through the introduction of new images combined with classic ones, De Vincenzo brings a new flare to ETRO. The Spring Summer 2024 collection for men was born from this profound reflection: ETRO inspires De Vincenzo and, in turn, De Vincenzo gives it new life. A ‘New Man’ benefits from the very nature of ETRO, which represents a fascinating weave of fabrics, free of the restrictions of traditional constructions, and feeds on the tradition of fluidity. “Wandering around my hometown of Messina, I stumbled upon an old bookstore and found a copy of an ancient book, Iconologia, by Cesare Ripa. This 17th-century repertory is full of allegorical images depicting virtues, qualities and vices,’ says De Vincenzo. At this point, De Vincenzo immediately connects the book’s allegories to the ETRO Man collection: the garments must correspond to those allegories. Ideally, but an iconographic quotation is also appropriate, to be placed on a tunic. And so, there come the Good Wishes, Beauty, Eternity, Lust, Tenacity, which like figures from the Tarot show up on the central panels of the tunic jackets made of bright fabrics, prints and jacquards typical of ETRO. The jackets, which do not cling to the body, the printed shirts, the silk jumpsuits with patterns, the long jacquard overcoats worn over beige tank tops and trousers with pleats, the silk bowling shirts with the same pattern as the jacquards, the jackets with wide lapels that create a neckline at the front, the lurex used to create shirts and tank tops, the sweatshirts made with carpet-stitched wool, the cardigans representing a sun (in the salon there is a reference to Olafur Eliasson’s sun or a quotation from the Tarot). In short, a collection dedicated to a man who does not take formality too seriously, who frees himself from the limitations imposed by the sacredness of the male wardrobe and takes the time to understand what he is wearing.