2023 opened with a Milan Fashion Week full of style between elegance and alternative solutions. Let’s discover them together
Milan Fashion Week 2023 will end tomorrow with the digital proposals. Among the 72 appointments that have taken place in Milan since 13 January, here is the selection of the best proposals according to the experience and style of Michele Franzese Moda.
The Dsquared2 show created by Dean and Dan Caten was held on Friday 13 January at 21:00, returning to the co-ed format, which brought the “Teenage Madness” to the Milan fashion shows. The protagonist of this autumn/winter 2023 collection was in fact “adolescence”, the freedom to express oneself and tell oneself without superstructures, without the brakes of conventional rules. A typically youthful ostentation of the affirmation of the self beyond all judgement: “If you don’t like what you see, the problem is yours, not mine”. It is precisely the teenager’s bedroom that becomes the set up of the And here on the catwalk are the characters/stereotypes typical of the adolescent community: geeks, gothic, athletes, emo, girls, they all walk the catwalk creating new forms of expression.In the looks we find then denim combined with down jackets and tank tops, jackets, jeans and skirts with fringes, jersey tank tops printed with the words Darlin and Emo, shearling hats, V-neck sweaters with preppy crests, plaid jackets paired with women’s shorts, quilted fir trees and deer, as symbols reference to Canadian nature, on jeans and jackets. Dsquared2 therefore tells the freedom of oneself by mixing past and future. A great show for the first day of Milan Fashion Week 2023.
Designer Matthew Williams’ show for 1017 Alyx 9sm took place on Friday 13 January at 7pm. The collection for next autumn/winter 2023 was presented at the Maiocchi space where around twenty works by the artist Mark Flood were exhibited for the occasion, then reproduced on some garments on the catwalk, from the bomber jacket to the trousers up to the details of the deconstructed lace. Minimal and shiny tailoring with oversized studs, but also pants and T-shirts first dyed then washed, printed and finally handmade. A conversation between art and fashion exploring new ways of interacting. At the end of the show, the well-known singer Sangiovanni personally went to greet Matthew Williams, wearing a look designed by the same designer consisting of black fringed trousers, a black hooded pullover and an oversized technical fabric jacket.
“This collection is a tribute to the figure of the 1930s aviator and his world, to the sophisticated severity and adventurous precision of his way of dressing, to the metallic sparkles of the planes and the architecture of the hangars”, wrote Armani in introductory note to the fashion show on Saturday 14 January on the autumn/winter men’s collection for Milan Fashion Week 2023. The theme of flight, of overcoming borders, of freedom translated into creative experimentation, is certainly not a randomly chosen theme, just the same symbol of the Emporio Armani brand is represented by an eaglet. Coats, trench coats, pea coats, blousons are combined with shortened trousers and massive boots but also vintage bomber jackets, tricot coats and sparkling velvet trousers. The colors “fly” from greige and beige to caramel and leather to intense red and purple, without renouncing the power of black.
The Etro collection presented on Sunday 15 January at 12:00 during Milan Fashion Week 2023 represented the menswear debut of Marco De Vincenzo who has been creative director of the Maison since last June. “I wanted there to be something about me in this family story… Mr. Etro (the founder Gimmo) told me that he had started producing a blend of crazy tartan fabrics, which he began to carry around, to show, to sell, and indeed there is a tribute to that beginning in the tartan suits I wear on the catwalk. For me, the beginning comes from a blanket, from something comfortable that comes from the domestic environment, there is a continuous exchange between public and private in the collection”. And this is how we find Marco De Vincenzo and Etro in balance in this collection: “The collection looks a lot like me. Six months have passed since I arrived at Etro and now I no longer move as a guest, it’s easy for me to transport a bit of my private life into this great family saga without feeling like an intruder… The collection is a tribute to the possibility that is been given the opportunity to draw on a story, an idea whenever I don’t feel the need. After all, the past is something that comforts you, and you need it to plan, to create. I am super happy with the collection, it is a first step that amalgamates me towards Etro, my point of view is felt in the clothes, but at the same time I want my presence to be balanced with that of the brand that exists before me”. Long tunics, overalls, shirts and coats with a loose and enveloping fit, emphasizing the importance of the fabric, wool jackets, jacquards, flower motifs on the lapels and bands of tuxedoes, fruit embroidered on sweaters.
The Brioni presentation on Saturday 14 January during Milan Fashion Week 2023 confirmed the soft approach to fine tailoring that with great craftsmanship constantly engages in the creation and construction of garments that make the wearer shine. Brand design director Norbert Stumpfl says: “I have the most excellent team of craftsmen behind me, and what they are able to achieve is a dream come true for me…As a designer, I need not shout…It Brioni’s style is almost invisible, not overbearing…It gives you comfort and confidence at the same time. We definitely like to spoil our customers”. Brioni is an idea of sublime but private, sober luxury. It is on this idea that the collections continue to improve. Among the exquisite sartorial proposals we find longer jackets, fuller trousers, definition but lightness, an unlined albino cashmere coat over a silk dress, shearling coats, calfskin blouson, crocodile blazer, tuxedo with silk moiré shawl collar . “Perfection is easily achieved despite the long work behind each garment … The garments must accompany the body in its movement, they are fluid and deconstructed, super light”, Stumpfl says.
The Kiton presentation during the first day of Milan Fashion Week 2023 focuses on elegance in all its forms. The goal of this collection is to dress men for all needs and all occasions. A sartorial proposal that also continues to focus on comfort with a more relaxed look of slightly longer trousers. Mondrian-style geometric patterned sweaters, tartan flannel or denim shirts, cardigan jackets made of four-thread cashmere with a soft and deconstructed fit, there is also a very elegant and iconic tuxedo. Grey, blue and beige contrasted with orange, burgundy and green.