Max Mara has presented in Milan a romantic display of nautically inclined haute gamme fashion from the famed brand. Once again, designer Ian Griffiths referenced the ’80s with plenty of power-shouldered looks, and a soundtrack from that decade’s dance hits. Yet this was fundamentally a tender vision of fashion, referencing the sea and maritime shapes. From the marvelous officer’s greatcoats – made in a mannish dry chalk stripe – to generously draped cashmere duffels or foul weather jackets with tassels. Though his favorite idea was the classy robe-de-chambre, tied at the waist with elegant robe belts. Griffiths updated each look with skill – like the final commodore’s blazer worn by Kaya Gerber, but cut oversized with dropped shoulders and ballooning sleeves, while the classic painter’s smock was reinvented as a short caban in dry felt wool.


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