After 10 successful years Jeremy Scott leaves the creative direction of the iconic Moschino brand, the hunt for a replacement begins
Scott and Moschino
The news came as a thunderbolt to the world of haute couture: after almost a decade Jeremy Scott is leaving the creative direction of the iconic Moschino brand. The very brief formal announcement was made on the afternoon of 20 March, leaving insiders and fans of the brand decidedly speechless. The partnership with the American designer of Texan origin, who seemed to be among the most certain in the world of haute couture, had begun in 2013 when Massimo Ferretti, president of Aeffe spa, the group that has owned Moschino since 1999, had seen in him the qualities and personality most suited to relaunching the brand, since Jeremy Scott shared with the great founder Franco Moschino, who died in 1994, in fact, a decidedly ironic, visionary, eclectic, brilliant and often irreverent idea of fashion. An era definitely closes for the famous Italian fashion house. Massimo Ferretti said earlier: ‘I am lucky to have had the opportunity to work with a creative force such as Jeremy Scott. I want to thank him for his ten-year commitment to the Maison Moschino, for the dedication shown over these ten years to Franco Moschino’s creative legacy, and for instilling in it his cheerful and joyful vision, which will forever remain part of the brand’s imagination”; and then Jeremy Scott: “These ten years at Moschino have been a fantastic celebration of creativity and imagination. I am really proud of the work I leave behind. I would like to thank Massimo Ferretti for giving me the honour to lead this iconic fashion house. I would also like to thank all my fans around the world who have celebrated me, my collections and my vision. Without you, none of what has been would have been possible’. The reasons behind this break-up are unclear, and perhaps never will be. According to the New York Times, a general change in the fashion industry could be underway, as witnessed by Alessandro Michele’s exit from Gucci and the relative entry of De Sarno, also an imaginative and extrovert designer, or a decade could be considered a reasonable enough time for a designer’s creative direction cycle at a single fashion house to end. The last collection to bear Scott’s signature at the helm of Moschino is therefore that of the Moschino fashion show during Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2023/2024, last 23 February, in which Moschino’s must-haves were reworked in a fascinating and visionary aristo-punk surrealist-inspired way. It is certain that some of Scott’s collections will go down in fashion history, such as the one inspired by McDonald’s, the one dedicated to Barbie dolls, the one with the inflatable clothes-salvets or the one dedicated to the figure of Marie Antoinette. It is also certain that Scott is among the designers most loved by stars: Katy Perry is one of his muses, who even posed in his debut advertising campaign for Moschino, but also Miley Cyrus and Angela Bassett have always adored him.
The designer immediately headed to Seoul to launch a new collaboration with car company Hyundai Motor Co. The designer designed a collection of ten eco-firendly couture dresses produced using waste materials from Hyundai Motor’s electric vehicles to be combined with deadstock fabrics. Wheels, seat belts, lights, windscreen wipers are transformed into fashion creations. This particular collection will be unveiled during the upcoming Hyundai Re:Style Exhibition.
Bets are already in the pot. Among the possible successors, the name of the Neapolitan Giuliano Calza, founder of GCDS, who also has an irreverent aesthetic, has been mentioned. There is also the name of the young british Harris Reed, current creative director of Nina Ricci. The decision on the new creative director obviously depends on Moschino’s strategy. We will find out soon enough, in the meantime Scott will be replaced by an in-house team from April 2023.