It’s time for the most creative and spectacular fashion week of the year, it’s time for the Haute Couture 22 fashion shows in Paris.
Paris 2022 Haute Couture is back in full swing, after the pandemic halt and containment of the last seasons. The Haute Couture fashion week, very high, Parisian fashion presented the Fall\Winter collections of the biggest fashion houses. The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode was able to find the complicity of an enchanting and dreamy Paris, as always, but also very bright in this sunny July. As is now customary for all major fashion events, the streaming of the fashion shows made it possible to extend participation in them live even to those who were not physically present. But let’s see a bit of an account chosen by us by Michele Franzese Moda on this very important appointment. The official go-ahead for programming was given by Elsa Schiaparelli with a dreamlike and surrealist elegance typical of the maison since its inception. Creative director Daniel Roseberry presented an autumn \ winter collection dominated by the color couple black for the dresses and gold for the majestic jewels with shaped and streamlined dresses, wide-brimmed hats and natural and floral elements artfully reconstructed to celebrate the uncanny female body because as stated by the creative director himself: «What’s wrong with wanting to make beautiful things? Wonder is not the only important component of life, of course, but it is one of its components. And among the most vital ». It was then the turn of Iris Van Herpen’s fantastic fashion show which celebrated the maison’s 15 years through a collection directly inspired by Greek mythology. Her creations, a total of 16 looks, have paraded by mixing woven fabrics with 3D structures decorated with feathers and veils in a truly spectacular animal, vegetable and celestial meta morphism but also attentive to sustainability as demonstrated by the bodice in biodegradable fabric from banana leaves. The Dior collection presented by creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by a work of Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko: the tree of life, a global and archetypal symbol that unites different cultures and religions. A collection designed by women and made for women. Chiuri chose Trofymenko to design the fashion show set with life-size tapestries with hand-embroidered floral inserts. The director observes and decodes fashion through art: “It is a question of shaping materials and shapes in the space of reflection that the atelier represents, permeable to the social reality in which we live; it is a question of remembering what it means to be human today… The gestures handed down, learned and always perfectible, repeat themselves. The tree of life is a call, a warning, to let traditions and gestures shine through, allowing us to find a balance, even if only momentarily “. The show designed by Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga was highly anticipated and did not disappoint. The show opened with a background sound in which the designer gave voice to a love poem for her husband: “Because for me je t’aime is the most beautiful word in the language. I realized that couture, what I do, is the only thing I love to do and I want to do. And somehow this was a love letter to the person I love most in my life, and to the work, to the art I do. Both”. With their faces covered by face masks between space and high-tech, real “humanoids haute couture” paraded until in the second part of the show the faces of the models begin to appear, and what faces: Nicole Kidman, Naomi Campbell, Due Lipa, Kim Kardashian. The show ended with a mega wedding dress made with 250 meters of tulle using 7,500 hours of work, decorated with 70,000 crystals, 80,000 silver leaves and 200,000 sequins. Kim Jones for Fendi organizes a show in which everything is focused on the items in her collection. High fashion creations parade on a bright scene dominated by absolute white, whose tailoring work is directly inspired by the Japanese technique of Kata Yuzen. An ancient and unique manufacturing technique in the world whose method of printing and hand painting allows you to overlap silk panels assembled asymmetrically. An exceptional Haute Couture 22 off-calendar was the Valentino fashion show “The beginning” by Pierpaolo Piccioli, in the heart of the Eternal City of Rome, the place where the first Valentino Garavani boutique saw the light in the late fifties. The show was a journey through time through which Piccioli retraced the personal and professional relationship with his teacher. But the intent is not a simple nostalgic celebration but to develop a visual reflection on what has been and on today: “Every principle is oblivion, hope, freedom, promise. In the beginning there is gestation of the future, feverish expectation, uncertainty. A personal story, the conversation with Valentino, what is in me and how much I have given back … “thus begins Piccioli’s letter entitled” The beginning “. Maison Valentino back in Rome with its Haute Couture for an event fashion show. On a 600m long walkway from Piazza Mignanelli, the historic home of the atelier, to Piazza di Spagna and Trinità dei Monti in 123 outings, models, with different aesthetic standards, paraded as people with their own identity and personal history wearing ruffles, voluminous and light dresses, bows, all distinctive features of the maison but seen today by Piccioli with different eyes.
The protagonists of this Haute Couture 22 in Paris were the jewels. There were numerous fashion shows on the calendar and almost accompanied by as much attention to jewels including exhibitions and gala dinners. Important focuses on luxury jewelry have been made by Fendi and Chanel, the latter having created a five-day exhibition in the Grand Palais Éphémère to celebrate the centenary of the unique collection of jewels ever created by Coco Chanel in 1922. They were present over 100 million euros in jewels including sapphires, opals, diamond rings with moon phases and Byzantine brooches: “covering women with a constellation of stars”, so said Mademoiselle Chanel. Fendi presented the latest large collection of jewelry including necklaces, earrings and cocktail rings and geometric assemblages of stones, an ideal accompaniment to the caramel-colored or deerskin dresses seen in the haute couture 22 collection. by Delfina Delettrez like the ice cream cone made of solid silver embellished with diamonds. Diana Picasso, the descendant of the famous Spanish painter, presented her new jewelry collection: Mené, an entirely digital brand, in which customers pay following the fluctuation of the raw material of gold or silver. In a gallery in the Marais Samuel François showed him very cool enamel rings, on gold chain pendants, brooches, large bracelets with metal flowers and earrings complemented by pearls with turquoise glass. In the La Gâité Lyrique theater, the famous French fashion and luxury maison Hermès has launched its new collection of high-end jewelry. A fusion of Baroque and Art Deco with diamond pavé rings finished with a large off-center diamond, large necklaces made with titanium, black spinels and sapphires. “We disappear into the sun, we disappeared into the light” so he recited himself during the presentation performance.