Partnership between Milan-based Ermenegildo Zegna and LA-headquartered Fear of God. Zegna might be one of the world’s largest suppliers on classy clothes for guys, an Italian menswear behemoth. And Fear of God a fledgling hipster star in the Los Angeles casual wear scene. But this felt very like a very balanced encounter between two designers thinking along parallel lines: Alessandro Sartori, Zegna’s master tailor and style conceptionalist and Jerry Lorenzo, the founder of Fear of God.  That’s true all the way to the joint venture’s logo – a bold Zegna done in the Fear of God typeface.  In effect, over 95% of the fabrics came from Zegna’s legendary mills; though Fear of God did provide some natty lived-in denim and a light-but-dense cotton seen in roll-neck tops. The whole silhouette was far looser than anything we’ve seen at Zegna, with one to three inches more width at the shoulder and a significantly more forgiving silhouette. Plus, a series of suits, double-breasted leather blazers and rock god chalk-stripes – all without lapels – echoed Pierre Cardin. Though the actual compositions also have tints of everywhere from Miami Vice to Superfly. Details throughout were deft, especially at the neckline in this tieless collection – like marvellous silk tops, cuffed and finished with clever zippered funnel-necks.

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