It is an iconic and timeless fabric, whose origins date back to the 16th century, as a blue canvas called Genoese moleskin and extremely resistant, used for ship sails and as a cover for goods. It took the name blue-de-Genes, that is blue of Genoa, from which, then, the word blue-jeans derived. When the fabric arrived in America in the 1800s, it was also ‘adopted’ by miners. In 1853, Levi Strauss invented the famous jeans. Cinema makes them iconic, with Hollywood idols like James Dean and Elvis Presley pairing them with T-shirts and leather jackets. In the 60s and 70s, jeans became the manifesto of youth rebellion, and in the early 80s they aimed for comfort and innovation with the first attempts to integrate elastic fiber. Stretch jeans become a must-have. In the 2000s, the focus was on beauty, functionality and flexibility. Jeans have always been a must have, however, and keep their charm unchanged, regardless of fashions and generations. According to Lyst, the jeans most loved by women in Italy are those of Jacquemus, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, The Attico and Levi’s. The classic 501 is confirmed as a must have that returns over the years, despite its wearability is not very easy. Denim can make any look casual in a simple way precisely because they are born as a work garment, therefore super informal. Denim is known as one of the most resource-heavy, environmentally damaging items: it is made from cotton, often grown with harmful fertilizers and pesticides and requires huge amounts of water to produce. Some brands right now are reworking vintage denim and using deadstock materials, meaning they aren’t actually producing anything new. Here the top ten denim brands selected by Vogue and making use of what exists and producing new denim responsibly: E.L.V. Denim, DL 1961, Etica, Amo Denim, Bliss and Mischief, Boyish jeans, Re/Done, Sezane, Citizens of Humanity, Gap Better Made Denim

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