“I want to offer our customers something they have not seen yet”, says Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director
And everything has its own reason for being, its dual function: to offer international customers of the brand, the garments they may need at the right time.
This is why Maier has come up with a truly elegant ad hoc solution: to create three distinct groups. “They work like mini-collections”, explains the Creative Director. “The first one comes out in November, the second one in December and the last one in January. Each focuses on what our customers might want or they might need when the bosses come to the store”
This is how the women’s collection starts, taking up the Autumn-Winter 2018 and its varied palette of intense colors: Deep Orange, Marigold Yellow and Baccara Rose.
In winter, Maier played with proportions and volumes. Double cashmere and double wool, which are iconic materials for Bottega Veneta, acquire a sporty look, for example, in the oversized duffle coat and in the jackets that are closed by large frogs. Voluminous flared skirts are combined with thick sweaters and short jackets, balanced by thin knee-high boots and high-heeled boots. For the parties of the season? The stylist proposes a voluminous dress and a skirt in a delightful pleated taffeta.
For the second group? Really beautiful colors, those of autumn gems, which give way to cold pastel and délavé shades. The discretion-luxury of the materials: a dense cashmere, the fur Steiff Schulte also used in the classic teddy bear and even a touch of lace.
The last group instead? “Everything is printed or in fantasy”, says Maier. “But nothing coordinated.” And the looks are really to be observed detail by detail. In fact, each motif is made of small dots, which from a distance create the illusion of a pied-de-poule or a tapestry print.
It is that surreal touch that characterizes Bottega Veneta. And yet they are designed in layers, to wear now and then. The shoe? It is the pump with animal print and a lively sculptural heel – perfect counterpoint to the maximalist spirit of ready-to-wear.
Let’s move on to the accessory. Maier presents an ingenious and extremely functional “accessory accessory”. These are woven leather goods in Checker Braided – round coin purse, rectangular mini-folders – created to accessorize thin belts or the shoulder strap of a bag, thus widening the possibilities of personalization. These geometric mini-accessories also decorate some bags, like the Chain Knot, giving an Op Art effect.
A sinuous and compact crossbody is the new day bag perfect for women always on the go. Paying homage to the butterfly, which has long been a symbol of Bottega Veneta, Maier has created an enchanting neckwear fantasy, printed on the leather in some new models, including the first female belt bag.
Parallel scheme based on the three themes, also for Bottega Veneta’s Man. Even here, the reference is to the Autumn-Winter 2018 season for the intense colors shown in a range of graphic paintings. It’s still the colored lapels on dark denim jeans, mélange sweaters, patinated shearling and a double wool duffel coat – another new smart and sporty garment – with removable knit hood.
The next group is instead renewed with winter whites and desert colors punctuated by flashes of Bubblegum Pink and Mint Green.
The unexpected palette elevates the casual uniform of soft sweatshirts with refined details and t-shirts worn with jackets inspired by the workwear and casual cotton trousers.
The outerwear is extremely functional, the detachable collar is in shearling and the interior in ecological fur that can be worn alone – all ideal for multiple climates.
The stylist then completes the looks with an alternative to the ubiquitous sneaker: a colorful boot with rubber sole and San Crispino workmanship in the checker version. Even for man, the arrival of spring revolves around the illusory point, which Maier uses to create sober dot-style versions of the classic patterns of men’s clothing: Prince of Wales, paintings and Scots.
Polka dots are mixed with butterflies printed shirts and mélange sweaters for a look that is a complex but coherent collage of patterns and textures. The element of eccentricity is counterbalanced by the essential nature of the silhouettes. The male handbags of the season include unpublished colorful models.
The Micro-Braided color-blocking family is made of calf with the braided motif. Another new group, made of strong dark nylon with nappa profiles in bright colors and interwoven details, injects a fresh spirit into the collection, especially in the new belt bag. Finally, the Enamel Tote has been revisited with handles and elements in enamelled metal in bright colors.