Classicism with a clever twist at Bottega Veneta, where in just three seasons designer Daniel Lee has established himself as a major fashion player. Quirky classicism in his marvelous set in Milan, a brilliant digital composite of great villas, all designed by arguably the single greatest architect in history – Andrea Palladio. In a co-ed show, Lee opened with several guys – strictly cut long coats with Napoleonic lapels, all reeking of pricey, double-face cashmere. Vitruvius would have been happy with the cut. The details all seemed right; from the one top golden button, to the horizontal suspender nipping in the look at the back. His pants were flared, his cuffs too, and there was a classy, faintly naughty edge – was that a corset the guy was wearing? The ladies wore something rather similar for day; like the elongated prim corporate suit on Kaia Gerber. At night, they wore seamless sequined columns and tulip dresses, with their metal trim that were accompanied by waxed Barbour-style spy trench-coats. All just that tad agreeably subversive. Staged in the enormous Palazzo del Ghiaccio skating rink, the musical accompaniment was a beautiful live duet between cellist Patrick Belaga and violinist Kai Kight. And all the fine DJ music the fashion pack had heard for the last few weeks in New York City, London and Milan suddenly seemed passé.
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