Future and past meet in the new Theyskens couture collection in a fluid and dazzling look
An androgynous light
If there is a haute couture collection that literally illuminated Paris Fashion Week 2022, it is certainly that of Azzaro’s spring-summer. The creative director Olivier Theyskens has decided to create a brilliant game between sequins, crystals, iridescent satin showing real metallic looks of an unparalleled brightness and all oriented to tell the fluidity of the future. Yes, because a central aspect of Azzaro’s SS 2022 couture, above all in the clothes, is precisely Androgyny. Olivier felt ready in stylistically discussing the role of gender identity in the world of fashion, imagining everything in a much more fluid way: here is Azzaro gender fluid. If on the one hand we talk about the future, the cut chosen, however, definitely looks to the past. In fact, the collection seems to evoke that memorable temporal range between the late 90s and early 2000s. The imagination flies to the red carpet of the Oscar evenings, all to admire Charlize Theron, Cate Blanchett, Halle Berry but also Jennifer Aniston still embraced to Brad Pitt. Long evening dresses with deep openings on the back and neck with shoulder straps that almost seem to be made of crystal. Theyskens, who was already known for his preference for using shimmering and luminescent materials, chose iridescent satin and paillettes at the center of his fluid narrative: “I love the ability to play with things I was more shy with in the past: paillettes, crystals. ”The dresses range from light blue with caramel reflections and darker choices in blue velvet; matching trousers and tunics, masculine suits decorated with bright details. Despite their formal differences, all the looks in the collection maintain the traditional oversized cut of the brand to create the effect of a relaxing fit. Azzaro gender fluid, beyond the rules because the house “is a fashion house, but it is not a high fashion house”, he explained. “It doesn’t have the rules of high fashion. Most of the clothes are very simple, it is just about the shape of the body ”continues Theyskens also stating, looking to the future, that“ People are looking for the new language. But I also want to continue working on retro-vintage, which I love “.
