At Heron Preston, Streetwear Forever

At Heron Preston, Streetwear Forever

Preston is exploring big issues, but the final product simply doesn’t convey the depth of his ideas


Like many other young, New York-based designers, Heron Preston has chosen to show in Paris. However, the collection he presented today was very New York: straight-forward versions of the trends that have come to define the way “kids these days” dress: cargo pants, parachute-string shorts, boob tubes.

Like many of his peers, Heron Preston is incorporating more tailoring into his répertoire and made some interesting choices when it came to construction. A white-padded suit was built in partnership with the architecture firm Dattner and inspired by the jagged-edge building they created on the West Side Highway for the New York City Department of Sanitation. (The connection is that he first made a name for himself in 2016 designing a collection inspired by the uniforms of sanitation workers.)

“Streetwear, for me, is outside of the walls of a very conventional way of thinking,” he said backstage before the show. “When you look outside the boundaries, that’s the space that’s really interesting to me.”

Preston is exploring big issues — environmental, social, economical. The problem, though, is that the final product simply doesn’t convey the depth of his ideas. He makes cute clothes and fun sneakers; belt’s with a “pull” tab, Gortex overcoats printed with the Gortex logo. Sexy jeans and nice-fitting utility jackets.

But what’s new, what’s “Heron Preston” about them? In order to move forward, Preston needs to figure this out.