What will post summer fashion be like? Let’s find out what Tom Ford and Balmain have predicted
Tom Ford and Chromotherapy
Advances for fall/winter 2022/23 fashion by Tom Ford shines with a very special chromatic light. Last September, the American designer said: “They say I don’t love color, but my first Gucci show was full of them, as were my collections for Yves Saint Laurent, who have never forgotten the couturier’s lesson”. The men’s and women’s collection for next autumn, presented outside the official fashion week calendars, focuses on bright colors and tailoring. Skilled tailoring is the main element of suits made ranging from different materials and fabrics: iridescent velvet, satin, (synthetic) fur. For women, the inevitable long evening dresses that play between veiling and opacity, creating a truly sexy interaction, alternate with jacket-sweatshirt hybrids in a bright turquoise, the same color that shines between the matching socks and heeled sandals; another recurring color is fuchsia that alternates between down jackets and feather fur (always strictly synthetic) with stockings and shoes with wedge heels; fluffy feathers wrap some coats and mini dresses making them even more sexy. For men, the atmosphere follows the same coherence between the attention to tailoring of jackets, trousers and overcoats, with the addition in some cases of a more sporty touch, and the really bright recurring colors: fuchsia, turquoise, but also very elegant blue and shaded grays but always on. The glamorous velvet is really dominant and also wraps the cover of the IPhone. But the advances for fall/winter 22-23 continue.
The young and talented Olivier Rousteing creative director of Balmain accompanied the presentation of his fall\winter 22-23 collection with a profound reflection on the theme of love and peace necessary to fight the war in Ukraine: “While we present our collection, we are well aware that much more important things are happening in the world today. It’s hard to think about focusing on the catwalks and clothes, as we feel our hearts getting heavier and heavier in front of the news. Our thoughts and prayers are with the Ukrainians. We are inspired by their dignity, their resilience and their devotion to freedom … My team and I have been preparing these dresses for months and what we brought to the catwalk was 100% ready before the inconceivable scenarios and images were revealed in front of us. which now dominate news and nightmares ”. His appeal was followed by immediate concrete action, inviting his followers to make donations to the UNHCR Emergency Ukraine fund. The inspiration for his collection is drawn from a personal story concerning the relationship with him showing himself following the consequences of the fire in his apartment which he was the victim of. The silhouettes are rigorously structured with a clear prevalence of both white and black, a contrast often recurring in Oliver’s creative choices. Another contrast is between the alternation of tailored cuts: many short dresses, sleeveless dresses, long evening dresses. Lace and other impalpable and light fabrics allow you to play between volumes to compose a particularly light and instead allows you to play with volumes to express Oliver’s sense of liberation up to also presenting the bustier revisited in the form of armor as if to reaffirm the right of each of us to protect ourselves from hatred, hatred of haters as of war. Because beauty is also in imperfection and in the affirmation of one’s own beauty, above all human.
Here are some advances for fall/winter 22-23! Stay up to date on Michele Franzese Moda.